Exfoliation is very important to keep skin fresh and healthy. Mechanical or physical exfoliation sloughs off dead skin via scrubs, brushes or microdermabrasion. Chemical exfoliation works by applying chemicals/acids/enzymes to the skin and the cells are dissolved.
Medical Grade Chemical Peels
“Heart, kidney or liver damage. A deep chemical peel uses carbolic acid (phenol) which can damage the heart muscle and cause the heart to beat irregularly. Phenol can also harm the kidneys and liver.”
Mayo Clinic – “Chemical Peels” – https://www.mayoclinic.org/tests-procedures/chemical-peel/about/pac-2039473
Medical grade chemical peels are made from harsh acids with very low ph levels. When applied to the skin, they essentially cause a chemical burn. After a few minutes, they must be thoroughly neutralized or the acids can continue to eat through the dead skin into the new skin. The science is that your body will go to work to heal the burn, thus increasing the cellular turnover and revealing new, healthier skin. There is significant downtime as your face will be red, puffy and irritated. You will be especially vulnerable to UV rays and your skin will literally begin to “peel” off as it sheds its outer layer. These types of peels are not recommended for sensitive skin, people on Retinol, broken skin, or those who are pregnant or nursing. Not only do the hormonal fluctuations associated with pregnancy and breastfeeding cause you to be extra-sensitive, but the chemicals used are so harsh that they can enter the blood stream and harm the baby! These types of peels need to be performed in a medical setting such as a plastic surgeon or dermatology office. Some med spas may offer them, but do your homework and check their reviews to make sure they are qualified to perform such a risky and aggressive treatment.
Pros | Cons |
Affects a deeper level of skin | Very aggressive |
Less treatments needed | Dangerous chemicals absorbed into blood stream |
After weeks of healing, fresh, new skin is revealed | So harsh, it can eat through healthy, living tissue if not properly neutralized |
Diminishes hyperpigmentation, scarring and wrinkles | Greater risk of side effects |
Several weeks of downtime | |
Pain, redness, scabbing, irritation and flakiness | |
Chemical burns |
Natural Enzyme Peels
Enzyme peels use the enzymes and acids extracted from different fruits, vegetables and botanicals to eat through the impurities and dead skin. These are natural acids and enzymes, so no dangerous chemicals will be entering the blood stream. Enzyme peels are still very effective and active but with virtually no downtime. Skin will be flushed, feel warm and will be UV sensitive for the first day, but no physical shedding or peeling of the skin will occur. These types of peels are administered by a licensed esthetician in a spa or med spa setting.
Pros | Cons |
Natural AHA/BHA (acids) | Not as aggressive, may need more treatments to see same results as chemical peel |
No or minimal downtime | |
Only targets dead cells, not healthy tissue | |
Safe for pregnant/nursing/sensitive skin | |
Diminishes hyperpigmentation, scarring and wrinkles | |
Dissolves dead cells, dirt, oil and impurities |
Natural Acids and Enzymes for Peels
- Papain (Papaya)
- Bromelain (Pineapple)
- Malic (apple)
- Salicylic (willow bark)
- Glycolic (sugar cane)
- Tartaric (grapes)
- Mandelic (bitter almonds)
- Azelaic (rye/barley)
- Lactic (yogurt)
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